“Eat, drink, and be merry, for tomorrow we fast.” That’s the spirit of Apokries, Greece’s Carnival season—an explosion of costumes, music, and feasting before the 40-day Lent fast. But this isn’t just a party; it’s a cultural phenomenon rooted in ancient Dionysian festivals.
For three weeks leading up to Clean Monday, Apokries transform Greece. Streets overflow with masked revelers. Parades take over cities. Villages stage satirical performances passed down for generations. And if you think Rio or Venice do it best, wait until you see the wild flour wars of Galaxidi or the surreal “Burning of the Carnival King” in Patras.
The Origins of Apokries
Apokries dates back to ancient Greece, where Dionysian festivals honored the god of wine, ecstasy, and revelry. These celebrations involved masks, theater, and unrestrained joy—traditions that evolved into today’s Carnival. When Christianity took hold, these pagan festivities merged with the Orthodox calendar, marking the transition into Lent.
The word “Apokries” itself means “abstention from meat,” signaling the coming fast. But before the restraint begins, Greeks embrace three weeks of feasting, masquerading, and joyous chaos.
The Three Phases of Greek Carnival
Apokries unfolds in three distinct phases:
- Profoni (Pre-announcement Week) – A warm-up for what’s to come. The mood shifts, and excitement builds. Family gatherings and small festivities set the stage.
- Kreatini (Meat Week) – The ultimate feast before Lent. Meat-laden tables fill homes and tavernas. Thursday of this week (Tsiknopempti) is the most celebrated, with the air thick with the scent of grilled meats.
- Tyrini (Cheese Week) – Meat is out, but dairy is in. As Lent approaches, the focus shifts to lighter fare, but the revelry doesn’t stop. The climax comes on the final weekend, with grand parades and masquerades.
Where to Experience the Best of Greek Carnival
Not all Carnivals in Greece are the same. Each region has its own unique customs and spectacles. Here are some of the best places to experience Apokries:
- Patras: The undisputed Carnival capital. Home to Greece’s largest and most extravagant parades, featuring giant floats, dancers, and a fiery finale where the “Carnival King” is set ablaze.
- Xanthi: A multicultural twist on tradition. This northern city’s Carnival blends Greek, Balkan, and Eastern influences, offering vibrant parades and folklore performances.
- Rethymno, Crete: A Venetian-inspired affair. The island’s Renaissance-era roots shine through in elegant costumes, street performances, and grand parades.
- Galaxidi: The most chaotic and unusual. Every Clean Monday, this coastal town erupts into a massive “flour war,” where participants throw colored flour at each other in a surreal battle.
How to Make the Most of Apokries
Want to immerse yourself in Greece’s Carnival like a local? Here’s what you need to know:
- Dress the part: Costumes aren’t just encouraged—they’re essential. Whether it’s a classic Venetian mask or an outrageous outfit, dressing up makes you part of the fun.
- Join a parade: Many cities allow visitors to march in their grand processions. Check local event schedules to participate.
- Taste the traditions: Try classic Apokries dishes like “kreatopita” (meat pie), “mpougatsa” (custard-filled pastry), and plenty of grilled meats.
- Embrace the satire: Greek Carnival thrives on humor and political satire. Expect to see playful (and sometimes provocative) performances mocking politicians and social issues.
- Celebrate Clean Monday: The Carnival ends with a day of kite-flying, seafood feasting, and the official start of Lent. It’s a quieter, more reflective transition from the chaos of Apokries.
Why You Should Experience Apokries
Greek Carnival is more than just a party—it’s a window into the country’s deep-rooted traditions, its love for storytelling, and its ability to turn even the darkest winter days into a festival of light and laughter. Whether you’re dodging flour bombs in Galaxidi or dancing through the streets of Patras, one thing is certain: Apokries is an unforgettable experience.
So, grab a mask, find a parade, and dive into the madness. Just be ready for the Lent detox afterward!
